Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

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I would like to do a few things here. First I will review the 70-200mm F2.8 lens as well as give advice for how to use it. Then, I will make some suggestions for some less expensive lenses that might work just fine for you. Also, I want to discuss the differences between the four different versions of this lens and the different situations they are useful, and suggest a third party lens that is similar in price but has a little more to offer. UPDATE – Since I first wrote this review there has been some new lenses released that change some of the information. I have updated this review to include the latest versions of the 70-200mm lenses in the comparison at the end (F4 IS II and F2.8 IS III), as well as added info about the Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 G2 Di VC which has a comparable price. The info about the lens being reviewed is the same, except where referencing the newer lenses. I’ve got a lot to say, so let’s pro-con this thing…. Pros (there are a lot) 1. Sharp – Without a doubt, image sharpness is important on a lens, for many it is the most important quality. This is one of the sharpest zoom lenses Canon makes. I’ll let the images do the rest of the talking on this subject. 2. Constant F2.8 – With most telephoto lenses, you will lose light as you zoom. I don’t want to get into the science behind why (at least not in the review), but the point is that this lens does not. It keeps the same wide F2.8 aperture no matter what focal length you choose, which makes it very useful in any light (I.E., indoor sports). 3. Bokeh – Speaking of F2.8, the wide aperture creates some pretty eye pleasing bokeh. This is one of the many qualities that make this such a good lens for portraits, or just about anything. Although if portraits are your game, I would look more at the IS II or IS III version of this lens. 4. Blazing fast AF – Ultrasonic motors are well known for their speedy autofocus. This one has ridiculously fast AF. When I got mine, the next best lens I owned was the 55-250mm IS II, and the AF speed comparison between them was no contest. The first time I hit that half press and saw how fast it nailed the focus I actually flinched! The guy at the shop laughed and told me I wasn’t the first he’d seen react that way. If you have never had a pro-level lens before, it might make you flinch too. It also has a focus limiter to help keep the focus fast when you aren’t super close to your subject. TIP – If you find that suddenly you can’t AF, then it is likely your limiter is set to 3m-infinity, or 9.8 feet for those not on metric. Flip the limiter to 1.5m-infinity when you start to get close. Keep in mind there is still a min distance you can be and still focus with this lens. (See the cons for more details). 5. Low-light – Works very well in low light, thanks to the aforementioned F2.8 aperture. Take a look at the squirrel photos I have posted. They were taken at dusk, with the sun barely poking out over the horizon, on a Rebel T3i. It looks more like overcast with diffused rather than diminished light. It’s good indoors too; if you want to take indoor shots of sports with minimal noise, this is the lens. Keep in mind that this largely depends on your camera. Full frame models perform better at this than APS-C/crop cameras due to their better high ISO performance, but even then the additional light will be a big help for crop systems. 6. Extender Compatible – Works with both the 1.4x and 2x extenders by Canon. Keep in mind the drawbacks of using an extender, in addition to minor IQ loss, you also lose light. The 1.4x drops you to F4 max and the 2x drops you to F5.6 max. Even at F5.6 it can still AF on just about any Canon (though on some of the lower models you might only get to use the center point). With the 2x on, this lens becomes a 140-400mm lens, and has comparable IQ to the 100-400mm v1 lens (v2 outperforms it). Slap that on an APS-C like the 80D or the 7D, and now you have that tight framing to go with it thanks to the 1.6 crop factor, making it pretty good for wildlife. I think the Kenko extenders work too, though I have not tested. 7. Portraits! – For those not in the know, this is a pretty good portrait lens. The basic rundown here is that the compression the lens gives creates a flattering look on your model, especially for headshots when zoomed in tight. Add in the bokeh effect, and you have some pretty good portraits. Keep in mind though, if you are using an APS-C camera the bokeh effect is not as strong as on a full frame, but is still pretty good. 8. Minimal focus breathing – Unlike the Tamron and the Sigma versions of this lens, the Canon has minimal focus breathing. From close focus distance, at 200mm, it looks more like 170mm. On the Tamron and Sigma models, it looks more like 130mm (not the newest version, I dont have info for those just yet) This is important for video shooters as well as portrait photographers. As I mentioned earlier though, if looking to do portraits, especially for money, then the IS II or IS III versions might be a better option. 9. Other stuff – L level glass with 4 UD elements to reduce chromatic aberrations. Solid case made of steel. Hood is included, and is felt covered on the inside. Tripod ring and carry bag are also included. Focus window is built into the lens. Metal threads for the filter. Overall, it’s just a great lens, and a worthwhile investment. Cons (Since all these things are listed specs for the lens, I am not taking any stars off for them, but they are worth pointing out. Knowing what you are buying and the way to use it is on the user.) 1. Price – Right at the top of the list is the price. This lens is expensive. This is due to the steel build of the case and all the glass that is packed into it, as well as its intended use. L lenses are meant for a higher level of photography, or in more direct terms, as an investment. They are either for people that make money from their photos, or at least take their hobby very seriously. Think hard before dropping the money on this lens. If it will cost more than your entire current setup up, then I would say to first take a look at one of my other recommendations later in the review, or maybe ask yourself how far you want to go with photography. I always liked taking pictures, but it wasn’t until I had the 70-200mm F2.8 that I really started to love doing it (along with an upgrade to the 80D). But, I wanted to branch out to more things, and that is how I was able to justify the cost. And to be fair, the lens holds value fairly well; you can sell it used for about 750-850 USD. A loss to be sure, but not a bad one. 2. Weight – Holy Jeebus this lens is heavy. If you only have the neck strap that came with your camera, then do yourself a favor and get something else. I once carried this around the zoo for a day on the neck strap, and well, never again. I have a few different setups, based on what I am doing. I have a “rapid strap” for general walk around use (the Altura version not the actual Rapid brand). I have a Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW II for extended use when I will only need this lens and my camera, plus lens case I added on the side to carry one more lens. And then I have my Lowepro ProTactic 450 AW backpack, where the camera fits in the side access point (like a sling bag), and then has room for all my other gear too. 3. Minimum Focus is 1.5m/4.9ft – You won’t get very close to anything with this lens, not without Extension Tubes. (I use the Kenko set that has the 12mm, 20mm, and 36mm. They work great for when I need to get closer.) I have gotten so close I couldn’t AF anymore, at least not without switching the limiter. So, why not always leave the limiter at 1.5m? Because it slows down AF at longer distances, but that really only matters for action type shots. If you are not shooting action then it’s fine at 1.5m. 4. Not Weather Sealed – At least not fully sealed. There is no gasket at the base to make a full seal on the camera, but the rings and the switches are sealed from moisture and dust. But when you consider that this is a pro-level lens and cost 1250 USD, it feels kind of like a gyp. I know this was the first version of this lens (released in 1995), but come on Canon, get us a sealed version of this lens! We don’t all need IS, and pro level lenses should be weather sealed. I mean, how much is that gasket? Can’t be much… 5. No IS – Speaking of IS, this one does not have it. This is part of the reason why it is so much less expensive than the IS II/IS III versions (also those lenses have more glass for better IQ). I talk more about this later in the review, but not everyone needs IS. To clear up a common misconception, IS is only useful for countering hand shakiness at low shutter speeds; it does nothing to freeze motion. At the extreme (200mm) this lens needs to be shot at 1/200 sec to prevent shake, or 1/320 on a crop camera. In decent light at F2.8 you won’t have trouble doing that. When shooting action, you will often be shooting at 1/500 sec or faster, in which case IS is not only useless but can even be a hindrance due to the time it takes for the drive to kick in. Also, if used on a tripod IS is useless, though to be fair I almost never use this from a tripod. So if you are shooting a lot of action shots or from a tripod, then IS is an overpriced luxury. If you are looking to get paid to make portraits, then I would say pony up the extra cash and get the F2.8 IS II/IS III instead, as that is a more solid investment for that purpose, and can be justified if you are being paid to shoot. 6. Other Stuff – Not silent for video, though AF is still spot on and noise is easily removed in post. 77mm filter thread means expensive filters if you are into that (but 77mm is also a common filter size, so they likely can be shared with other lenses). Focus ring is placed where you would likely hold the lens, and with full manual override in AF mode you can accidentally move the ring. Not too big a deal, you get used to holding it on the zoom ring so that this doesn’t happen (I can only think of a few times it happened to me). I leave the ring mount on at all times and prop the lens up with that. Hood is expensive to replace at 50 USD, I suggest the Promaster version for about half that. Mine is pretty worn out, and will need replaced soon, but it is several years old, and sees a TON of action! Again, all these “cons” are part of the listed specs and in my opinion do not warrant the removal of any stars. It would be like rating an F4 lens 4 out of 5 stars because it can only go to F4. It is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it. Conclusions I have not regretted buying this lens, even though I am not a paid professional. I fall into the category of the enthusiast; someone that has a high level of technical understanding and skill and is very passionate about photography, but otherwise doesn’t get paid. I was able to justify this to myself because I wanted to get more action shots. Things like squirrels, ducks, geese, deer, or any other animal on the run. I wanted to be able to shoot my nieces volleyball games (which she unfortunately decided to quit playing by the time I had the money to buy the lens LOL). It was a nice bonus to find out that it makes a wonderful portrait lens; though you do need to be fairly steady to do that by hand with this monster, or at least in good light (the IS II/IS III is definitely better for that). I want to end by saying that if you are not sure that what you need is this lens, then go out and shoot all the things you want to be shooting with whatever you have. Review what you have at the end, and consider what I have said here. Be realistic about what this lens can or cannot do for you. It can take some great photos and adds better low light shooting. It cannot overcome a lack of skill or knowledge. Again, be realistic, and have fun no matter what you choose. Other Suggestions – In all my reviews I like to point out some other lenses that are less expensive that might be good enough for what you want to do. That is the WOFG way! 1. EF-S 55-250mm F4-5.6 IS STM – If you have a Rebel or other crop camera, this lens is a fine one for its price of 300 USD (200 if bundled with a new camera). It does great at just about everything; sharp, fairly quick and quiet AF (silent for video), IS, lightweight, and even though the barrel extends during zoom and focus, the front element does not rotate. For APS-C users, this is possibly the best lens for less than 1000 USD. Full frame users need not apply, since it won’t fit on those cameras. 2. EF 70-300mm F4-5.6 IS II USM – This lens and the 55-250mm have nearly identical IQ and features. The main differences are that this one has 50mm of extra reach, has a neat little LCD display, and has Nano-USM which is fast for stills but silent for video. However, it is also 200 dollars more at 500 USD. But, it works on both APS-C and full frame cameras, and in my opinion is the best option for full frame cameras for less than 1000 USD. (I have a review for this lens on my profile, if you are interested in more info). I don’t want to get to far into it since this is not a review for those lenses, but if you are not looking to drop more money on a lens than you have in your whole setup, then either of those will work well. They are not as universally good as the 70-200 F2.8, but they are much less expensive. Just make sure you have plenty of light, as they do have a more limited max aperture. Lastly, I want to talk about all the different versions of the 70-200mm there are, and the scenarios they are useful. It seems pretty common that people are sometimes confused about these lenses, and I want to help them make a better decision before spending so much money. The F4 non-IS – There was a time I would have said, “This is the best bang for your buck telephoto for less than 1000 dollars.” And while it is still a really good and sharp lens, I have started to recommend the previously mentioned 55-250mm and 70-300mm instead. For a lower price, you can have very good image quality, IS, and a longer reach, albeit at the sacrifice of a stop at the long ends (which IS more than makes up for against slow moving or stationary subjects). For the price, I would cut my teeth on one of those while saving for one of the more expensive F2.8 models. The F4 IS or IS II – Popular amongst nature photographers, this lens adds IS to the F4 model. Like all its brothers, it is sharp with a fast AF. Nature shooters like it because they can shoot at slower shutter speeds without the aid of a tripod, thanks to the IS. For action though, it has the same drawbacks as any lens that can’t open up any further than F4; it can only shoot action in really good light. Anything indoors is out without a flash. For the difference in price (1150 vs 1250) I would rather carry a tripod/monopod and the F2.8 model. But if you are only shooting slow subjects anyway, then this is a good value lens, not only for its sharpness and IS, but it is a lot lighter than the F2.8 as well. UPDATE – There is a new version out for this lens, the IS II. This lens has several updates that improve on the original. At release it is a bit more expensive at 1300 USD, which is the same price as the Tamron G2 70-200mm F2.8 Di VC. I would think that anything that can be shot with the F4 IS can also be shot with the Tamron (talk more about this later). I would also bet that the price will come down once all the v1 F4 IS models are sold, making it a better value. For now though, I would say at least look at the Tamron G2 F2.8 before getting the Canon F4L IS II. The F4 IS mk1 is still a great lens too; if the price drops to 1000 or less at some point I would say grab one if you are interested in it. F2.8 non-IS – The oldest model on this list (and the one in this review), this lens was originally released in 1995, and has been one of Canon’s flagship lenses ever since. Outdone only by the more recent IS versions, this lens has exceptional performance. Depending on your intended use, it can be a bargain for you. If most of your shots will be action shots, no matter the light, then this is your lens for 700 dollars less than the IS ii (1250 vs 1950). Some people prefer the F4 IS for 100 bucks less, but here are my thoughts on that. For the money, I would take the F2.8 any day. I can find a way to steady my shot (tripod, monopod, sturdy surface), but F4 can never be F2.8. I would only go with the F4 version if more than 50% of my shots would need to be at slow shutter speeds, requiring the IS. UPDATE – Since I wrote this review there has been a new Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 G2 Di VC, and it is almost the same price as the Canon. While I would suggest it over the F4 IS II for nature shooting at the current pricing (same price), I am not sure I would suggest it over the Canon F2.8 for action. They both have fast F2.8 apertures, but Tamron lenses tend to lack in AF performance, specifically in continuous mode or when in low light (where an F2.8 lens would need to be used). However, VC is the same as IS, and the Tamron brings that for just 50 dollars more than the Canon. I would say it is worth a look, but if action is your game then the Canon F2.8 is still the stronger performer for nailing focus every time, no matter the light or the focus mode. One other thing to point out would be both are very sharp in the center of the frame, but the Canon lenses are sharper on the outer parts of the frame. The Tamron sees a slight loss in sharpness in the corners. F2.8 IS II or IS III– The big dog of the block, this guy is pricey, but awesome. A true pro’s tool, it is versatile for so many things. It has improved optics over the other models, for even sharper IQ; though I question the level a person can even perceive the difference. The IS can be a big advantage, offering 4 stops of assistance with one of the more modern versions Canon makes. It is very expensive though, at 1950 USD. It combines together the best elements of just about any lens you would want, save for a longer reach or wider angle of view. But I would not suggest it to just anyone. If you don’t make a living from your photography, then put some serious thought into this before buying it. I personally had a hard time justifying the non-IS version, since I am not a pro. But I now have images I never could have made with my other lenses, not without a lot of luck and perfect conditions. I would just hate to see someone dump so much money into just one lens if they really have no need for what it can do. UPDATE – There is a new version of this lens, the IS III. The only difference performance wise is that it has improved coatings to reduce flare and ghosting effects. This matters for strong backlight and not really anything else. Optically they are identical, but the IS III is 300 USD more than the IS II. I would think that once the IS II is cleared out that it will drop to the 1950 USD we normally see the IS II at. Until then there is little reason to consider it over the IS II. That’s all I got. All that is left is to check out the images. Thanks for reading my review!

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I had been approached to photograph ladies high school soccer. The games are JV at 5 - 7PM and Varsity from 7 - 9PM. Lighting goes from GREAT to WTF over that time frame. Our stadium lighting is great as that goes, but as always, poses a problem. Other stadiums can be more problematic, so I feel blessed. Parents look forward to seeing quality photos of their athletes and its my every intention of giving that to them. Ladies are very underrepresented IMHO. Ive read a lot of reviews and went ahead and purchased the best friend a Canon photographer could have! The question was..to IS or not to IS? I went with "to not to." The more than obvious reason was because of my budget. The second obvious reason was because of the research I had done outside of Amazon. I asked myself what the pro sports photo guys and gals used. There were different schools of thought. Most said "to not to." Some said that they notice a trade off of to acquire the subject being longer with IS for a negligible difference. In many cases the ISs were not as sharp. My suggestion to you is to definitely google it yourself. MY results were phenomenal! I am VERY happy that I made the leap! ...AND not to the highest cost. I totally traded up! I can only refer to MY experiences and not tell you what to do, but I have found that the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 (non-IS) has worked out fabulous for me. My results speak for themselves. That said, I continually seek new and better ways to improve my skills. This lens helped in that effort. I no longer feel "as" restricted having stepped up to the L glass. The upside is that I have sold more photos this year than I have in the past...due in combination of marketing myself better and great action shots. If you have the funds, pick one up. I am happy that I did. I have a several photos that give you an idea of the results I was able to achieve as part of this review. Bottom line: ~ Crystal clear images ~ Better night action shooting ~ I also picked up the "NEW Photography & Cinema pistol grip handle FOR Digital DSLR Cameras" through Amazon to help with keeping more stable. It was like $15. I developed a method for using it that helps me to manage the weight and zooming. I would consider it or something like it for yourselves. The EF 70-200mm is kind of heavy as lenses go. I used a monopod a couple of times for a couple of minutes, but feel somewhat restricted because of how I shoot. The grip helped a lot.

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Dont worry that its not the mark II of this lens. Even without the image stabilization, this is easily the best lens Ive ever had the pleasure in owning. I picked up this lens to take sports photographs for my old high school in the beginning of the 2017-18 school year. I definitely wanted to get Canons newer version, you know, the big almost two grand lens with the image stabilization and improved focus, whatever. But with a deadline, I had to grab what I could, worried that I would have to settle for a lens thats 15 years old (According to Amazon?). Luckily for me, I didnt have to settle, this lens outperformed on any person I put in front of it. At f/2.8 it lets so much light in that on a Canon 6D I never had to worry if (because of the lack of image stabilization) if my shots were slightly blurred from my movement. I could run 1/200 second, f/2.8 and auto ISO (limited to 50-6400) and I had perfect depth of field, focus, and almost no noise, and any noise I did have at 6400 I could easily correct in post with the 6Ds high ISO capabilities. (I cant share images unfortunately, otherwise I would!) My only complaint and it has nothing to do with the lens itself, just me as a human being. This lens is heavy, do get a strap if you plan on raising it, putting it down, and raising it again like I constantly had to do. You only make that mistake once and you will feel it the next day. Conveniently, this lens comes with its own bag, which is totally appreciated if you plan on switching lenses out and not wanting to run the risk of scratching it (as it is quite a big one). It also comes with a lens hood, again, totally appreciated and not only looks much more professional, but with stadium lights shining above, its entirely useful and does a great job.

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Canon has been building these L lenses for nearly 20 years and they continue to be a best seller. This lens is a solid performer and well worth the cost. True, you can pick up less expensive telephoto glass made by Tamron, Sigma, and others (I know. I tried) but you will not get the crisp focus and rugged durability of this 70-200. This is one of three L series I own and I take it with me everywhere I shoot. I have used this lens mainly for large events such as fashion shows and music performances or any place I needed some telephoto power. With a max 2.8 aperture it performs exceptionally well under low light conditions and creates a creamy bokeh (background blur) unrivaled in any other lens I have owned. The sharpness is superb and used with a full frame body any vignetting or aberration issues will be virtually non-existent. This lens does NOT, however, have IS (image stabilization) which is missed, but not required. Using a tripod or monopod negates the need for IS. For all other conditions I have found hand held shooting in non-action shots have never been a problem. IS is better suited for sports, dancing, any situation where fast hand held shots are needed. But for my purposes, and because the image quality is neither improved or degraded by the absence of IS, I simply dont need it and neither do I need to pay $1200 extra for it (which is more than a little outrageous). Something else missing is weather protection which is available with the IS version. So extra caution should be used if this lens is going to be exposed to elements; there are rain shrouds available and highly recommended if there is any chance water might hit this lens. Finally, this is a tank of lens. It is heavy and unwieldy, which is actually kind of comforting knowing its all metal construction can take some punishment. Still, probably not a good choice as a walking around lens.

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Well Ive waited over a year now to write something. I have used this zoom lens exclusively on my 6D and my comments specific to that. -just add one to what everyone else has already said here about the quality of images with this lens and its heft. -it has taken time to learn to use it effectively within its reach and depth and the results are just fantastic, Im very pleased. I have been using both manual focus and various 6D auto focusing modes depending on the subject with great results both ways. Impressive subject detail under sometimes less than ideal lighting as its f/2.8. An example of my appreciation example. I was walking along a trail in a wetland and came upon a great blue heron which immediately took flight on noticing me. Its route was swift and from left to right of my view maybe 20 or so feet away, very low to ground angle that might confuse the autofocus (it didnt). Had this lens on, 6D in auto focus mode... and started snapping. The results were very impressive, and for me perfect. For staged shots like portraits it opens up a lot of possibilities for area and depth and detail. It is a great compliment lens for my EF 24-70 L USM zoom. -included lens hood, tripod ring, case, caps.

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love love love this lens. if I was on a full frame camera I dont think id ever take this lens off. excellent image quality, beautiful bokeh, easily corrected Chromatic aberration and lens profile. This lens is a work horse it can take the beats and bangs and keep on ticking. excellent for portraits on full frame and great for sports, weddings, astro photography, anything you need to get some distance on your subject for crop cameras. I shoot football games and rodeos with this all the time and it gives amazing results on my crop sensor. and the constant f2.8 really helps in those low light situations. The only reason I would recommend spending the extra $1000 for the l2 version is for the image stabilization which honestly if I shoot in burst mode I usually have at least one crisp picture even in the worst of situations.

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This lens is well worth its cost. I was debating between this one and its brothers, the f/4, f/4 IS, and the f/2.8 IS. At 200mm, some people may need the IS, but a good sturdy tripod will work just the same. I have had no issues with that, and I couldnt justify the extra thousand dollars for the IS version. This lens is a must have for any portrait photographer. Since I bought this lens, I have only taken it off the camera once. If you are debating between this one and either of the f/4 versions, absolutely go with this one. Hands down, this is my go to lens unless I absolutely need something wider.

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This is an awesome lens, but it is much bigger and heavier than I anticipated, hence only 4 stars. I have a Sigma Bigma and this lens is only slightly smaller. I have only taken maybe 50 photos with it and it autofocuses immediately, is very quiet and the pictures turned out great as they were crisp and clear. One thing was also immediately apparent was that the depth of field is quite small. An example I took a picture of my dog in my kitchen 6 feet away and everything immediately behind her was blurred. She on the other hand popped out of the picture. Pictures taken at a greater distance cut this effect drastically. I saw in another review that Canon wouldnt honor his rebate. I am hoping that isnt the case with mine. The rebate was for $100 off if purchased between March 2, 2014 and March 29, 2014. I bought mine on March 6th, so we will see. Since receiving this lens I have since purchased a Joby carrying strap as even my Tamron 28mm - 300mm stresses my neck after a bit and the Canon lens is at least 2+ times heavier. I will review that product in conjunction with this lens when I have had an opportunity to utilize both together (supposed to get the strap tomorrow).

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I take a lot of photos for local theatres and acting groups, so having a fast autofocus is very important. During scenes with fast action, I adjust my framing and zoom a lot, and the lens will lock on fast and consistently. I lose 1-2 images every now and then, but I am pretty sure that was my own error. Furthermore, the images are sharp, with no noticeable color fringing. The lens comes with a nice case and a tripod collar. If youre not carrying around a bag with you, the case has a strap and a belt loop. It wasnt the best lens exchange system, but it was nice when I didnt want to carry around and entire bag for just one other lens. I also strapped a speedlite on for more formal pictures. It would be nice to have IS, but for me, its not worth the additional price. The lens will get very heavy after a couple of hours, so youll need to pump some iron, or this camera. Summary: Pros: Fast Focus Great images Comes with a case and tripod collar Cons: Heavy Overall: If youre looking for a 70-200MM lens that is fast and reasonably priced, get this one. IS is great, and will probably increase the number of useable photos you get, but this lens will still rock your world.

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Great purchase!! For a beginner with a Canon T3i. As a volunteer photographer for the church, I was having trouble shooting in a low light setting. Our church seats about 2k, its huge, and my 18-200mm, 3.5-5.6 would not let me shoot anywhere but on the stage without bumping my ISO to 1600 plus. I could not shoot into the audience. This 2.8 long lens allows me to do whatever I want. I can shoot across the church in dimmed places and still maintain sharp images. This lens was worth the wait, and its bought me time, where I dont have to make an immediate upgrade on my camera just yet.

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